We decided to go climb Mount Tsukuba on Christmas. Not because it was Christmas, but because it was a Sunday (i.e. Karina-san had the day off). Despite all the Christmas ornaments and the beautifully decorated trees everywhere, it’s not a national holiday in Japan. Luckily, this year it fell on a Sunday.

Mount Tsukuba is one of the more famous mountains in Japan. Not because of it’s height (the highest point is a ‘mere’ 877 meters high), but because of it’s double peaks, called Nyotai (877m) and Nantai (871). It’s a very Eastern concept as Nyotai (meaning ‘female body’) and Nantai (meaning ‘male’s body’) together make one mountain. Very yinyang. At the foot of the mountain, there is a very old and famous Shinto shrine dedicated to the mountain as a kami, who is believed to bestow the blessing of a good relationship and strong marriage.

The mountain is about 20km away from our apartment, and the landscape isn’t as flat as in the Netherlands. We started our day extra-early, since we planned to be back in our apartment before sundown (around 16:00); you do not want to get caught in the dark in unknown surroundings while on your bike in Japan, you’ll get lost, hit by a car or both.
It took us a little under two hours to reach the foot of the mountain, walked the rest of the way. It took about an hour to reach the shrine, where we ate and drank something, then made our way to the top. We reached the area between the two peaks at around noon. There are some giftshops and small food stalls there. After lunch, we first climbed Nantai, and afterwards Nyotai, which only took about  an hour each.

The sights from both peaks were stunning. From Nantai, we could see the entire Kanto area, including Tokyo and Mount Fuji, and from Nyotai we could see the whole of Ibaraki and the Pacific Ocean.  Especially Nyotai was very cool, as the peak was a rocky outcrop which really gave you a 360 degree view of the area (at some small risk of plummeting to your death).

After Nyotai, we needed to head back down. I would have loved to stay longer and watch the sunset, but alas, we’ll do that another time.

P.S. going downhill with your bike and only needing to steer and occasionally break for over 15 minutes is a lot more fun than going up!

Click here to see these and more pictures in higher resolution.

 

Sunday was such a beautiful, clear day that we could see Mount Fuji from our apartment building. This is the mountain that Karina and I climbed all the way to the top (3.776m) last July, and where I proposed to her. Looking at the mountain like this, it’s not hard to imagine that it’s, in fact, an (active) volcano. To try to get an indication of how big Fuji-san really is, you have to realize that it’s about 200km away from our apartment! It’s like looking from one side of the Netherlands all the way to the other side! And it still looks huge!
A popular Japanese saying translates into something like: “You’re a fool not to climb Fuji once, and a fool to climb him twice.”

Click here to see these and more pictures in higher resolution.

 

Last monday, Karina and I went to a bikeshop near Tsukuba University. This shop, called Inoue, is kinda popular among exchange-students and foreigners for two reasons:

1) The owner can speak something that remotely resembles English
2) The shop has bikes that have wheel sizes up to 27 inch (which is kinda small, but probably the biggest you’ll find)

It was very busy in the small shop, as not only we, but also several Chinese girls were buying a bike, and clearly the owner wasn’t used to doing so much business in such a short time. His wife started helping out, and she didn’t speak any English at all. Fortunately the bike I wanted was the only bright red bike in the shop. “Aka jitensha, onigaishimasu” (the red bike, please).

In Japan, your bike gets registered with the police, and you have to carry those papers with you every time you go anywhere on your bike, much like the registration papers you get with your car. In all the chaos, the shopkeeper totally forgot to give the four Chinese girls their papers, and they already left the store on their new bikes a few minutes before. A young bike-mechanic was ordered to jump on a bike and give chase, not to return before he handed the girls the papers. I’m not sure if the guy ever found the girls.

I do have some pictures of my bike though. Click on the pictures to see a bigger picture. More pictures here.

 

This morning I got woken up by an earthquake. It was the first earthquake in our new apartment, so we weren’t sure how the building would act. Would it swing violently, would it make a lot of noise? It turned out it’s almost silent, but it moves like Jagger.  You could really feel the different types of waves. First back and forth, than side to side. The whole quake took about 45 seconds, during which we did nothing else but sit up in bed and try to estimate if it’s a regular earthquake or one that requires further action. Luckily, we felt the waves getting weaker very quickly and soon they disappeared.

The first thing we gaijin do after such a quake is get a laptop and visit http://www.jma.go.jp, which auto updates all earthquake information within two minutes of one happing.  Turns out it was a magnitude 5.2 quake, it’s epicenter about 20km deep and 60km away from Tsukuba. That’s pretty close to the surface, but also pretty far away. Still, M5.2 will probably be the strongest earthquake this week, although it could also be a precursor to a bigger one coming soon. With earthquakes, you never know.

What we do know, is that earthquakes happen a lot in Japan, and from someone coming from the Netherlands, it really is a lot. I mean, several times each day. Now, Japan is a big country, and a lot of them are quite weak, but on average you will feel an earthquake every single day. I say on average, because they are usually clustered together. You can go a week without feeling one (but not much longer) then feel 3 in one day. What I’ve heard so far is that the frequency of quakes is a lot higher since March 11th. A lot of these quakes we feel are aftershocks of the big M9.0 quake, which apparently will go on for years to come.

It’s easy to understand that with this high frequency of quakes, the whole Japanese society is prepared to deal with them. Basically all buildings are build ‘earthquake-proof’ (the ones that weren’t are destroyed by now) and kids and adults are instructed how to act during and after an earthquake. Interior design is adapted as well: slightly upward tilted shelves, no shelves above your bed (or at least not above your head), and electrical appliances and kitchen-stoves automatically shut down during heavy quakes.
People have emergency torches, helmets, flashlights, radios and emergency stockpiles.

The idea behind these stockpiles is self-sufficiency for at least 72 hours. That is that time the Japanese government thinks it will take to reach everyone after a major earthquake, like the one in March. A stockpile should contain several bottles of water, food, medicine, first-aid kit, batteries and tools, but also entertainment as  boredom usually leads people to do stupid things. Karina and I are building a stockpile too. I’ll post some pictures when it’s done.

Sometimes, it feels like ‘over-preparedness’, but big earthquakes, like the Marth 11th one, prove that there is no such thing as over-preparing for an earthquake. Earthquakes in Japan are part of the daily life. And because it’s part of the daily life, it’s not really threatening. Earthquakes that would destroy large parts of a community in other parts of the world (like the M6.3 in Christchurch, New Zealand, or the M7,1 in Van, Turkey), won’t even stop the day to day life in Japan for longer than a few minutes.

In many ways, it’s a bit like the Dutch and their floods. The Netherlands is so well-protected against flooding, that it’s actually safer then a lot of surrounding countries that aren’t lower than the level of the sea. It’s a crazy paradox when you think about it.

 

Yesterday, we moved into our new apartment. It’s an apartment in Ninomiya House, which offers housing for researchers from abroad or outside the Tokyo region who work at one of the many JISTEC-affiliated institutes around Tsukuba. The location of the apartment is great as well. It’s not only five minutes from the city center (and station), it also offers a great view of Mount Tsukuba. It’s the first thing we see when we open our front door. On the south side of our apartment, we have a giant balcony and small room, they call a “Sun Room”, which is a small room of which three of the walls are made entirely of glass and can be opened up to the balcony. Apparently, most people use it to dry laundry when it rains, but I guess it will be nice on summer-evenings as well.

The apartment itself is very Japanese with a lot of sliding doors and rice paper panels to close off the windows. It also has curtains, but the rice paper panels make it much lighter and cozier. The bathroom has a seperate shower/bath area which you can seal by closing a special door, which makes the whole room effectively watertight. No hassle with showercurtains and you can fill the bath right up to the rim (which we did ^^;). All the overflow will just drain away (like in a pool).
What’s very un-Japanese is the normal dining table and chairs we got, but I don’t regret that :) .

Something else that immediately catches the eye is all the earthquake measures installed. All the shelves are slightly tilted upwards so vibration will shove stuff towards the wall instead of on the ground (or your head), and we got emergency torches, radios, flashlights and safety helmets. Karina also started on making an emergency stockpile, the point of which is to be self-sufficient for 72 hours. I’ll write more on that later.

For now, we’re just enjoying our apartment, and checking things out like the closest ‘supamaketo’ (Kasumi) and 100 yen shop (Seria). I’ll add some pictures once we are settled in.

 

 

This is a blog about my life in Japan.

More to come!

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